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I arrived in Matsumoto on a chilly evening, the coolness of winter nonetheless enveloping the streets, a breath of rain within the air. The mountain chilly was disorienting after having arrived from a distinctly hotter Tokyo, on a bus that appeared to trundle endlessly previous darkish stretches of countryside.
Then the morning got here clear and contemporary, and I walked to Matsumoto Station. The view from the large glass home windows of the west exit was that of the Alps, the snow-capped mountain vary within the distance. In stark, wintry aid in opposition to a transparent blue sky, it’s a sight that etches itself into the very ventricles of your coronary heart.
It calls to thoughts Robert MacFarlane’s meditation on mountains, on how they, “like all wildernesses, problem our complacent conviction — really easy to lapse into — that the world has been made for people by people.”
Should you journey to Matsumoto, arrive within the morning and let this be the primary sight you see out of the station gates.
Matsumoto is legendary for its magnificent black fort, museums, and surrounding mountains. Although it’s the second largest metropolis in Nagano prefecture, the town heart is a manageable measurement, with broad pavements and boulevards that make it good for exploring on foot or bicycle.
Town structure additionally appears to have a sublime, old style appeal. There are previous buildings from all durations, and lots of companies have saved a lot of the marginally antiquated shopfront signage with fonts from many years in the past.
Most significantly, it’s a small metropolis with an enormous coronary heart. The individuals are as heat because the mountains are chilly. A woman struck up a dialog with us about an umbrella stand in entrance of her store. Smiles appear that a lot hotter after the coldness of the metropolis.
All this makes the town really feel splendidly faraway from the hectic tempo of city residing, a pause button within the type of this charming place just some hours from Tokyo.
Initially revealed in 2019, this text was up to date and republished on Oct. 25, 2022.
Issues to See and Do in Matsumoto
Matsumoto is a compact metropolis, however it doesn’t lack for issues to do. Whether or not you’re taken with castles, artwork, meals, or buying, there’s one thing for everybody right here.
Go to the Sixteenth-Century Matsumoto Fortress
Matsumoto is legendary for its Sixteenth-century black fort. A chosen Nationwide Treasure, I consider it because the visible yin to Himeji Fortress’s yang. By day, it’s putting; by evening, downright dramatic when lit from under, mirrored within the surrounding pond.
The grounds exterior the fort are lush, with a notable grove of plum bushes—good for a romantic date of types. With loads of area to roam round, there’s at all times an opportunity of encountering a pleasant pet or two across the fort.
Historical past buffs shouldn’t miss visiting Matsumoto-jo, and everybody ought to go for the view of the encircling mountains from the highest flooring.
Hop All the way down to Nawate Road
This avenue is a hop, skip, and soar away from Matsumoto Fortress. Also referred to as Frog Road, it’s lined with memento retailers, snack stands, just a few cafes and eating places, a cotton sweet machine, and an vintage store with an assortment of bric-a-brac verging on junk.
As befits its nickname, there are many frog-themed items to be discovered. It’s a pleasant highway to stroll alongside in your approach to the subsequent vacation spot.
Take within the Historic Buildings of Nakamachi Road
Actually which means “heart” and “city,” Nakamachi Road, unsurprisingly, was within the heart of Matsumoto when it was a fort city.
A part of the historic district of Matsumoto, this avenue is lined with fantastically preserved previous buildings that are actually largely crafts and folks retailers, eating places, and an inn or two.
It feels remarkably well-curated—every store appears to have one thing pleasant to find, whether or not it’s ceramics or native miso—and it’s an exquisite avenue to discover.
Significantly noteworthy are the kura or previous warehouse-style buildings constructed within the wattle and daub fashion, typical of districts with a major service provider presence. They’re recognizable by their trendy and attribute black-and-white “sea cucumber” plaster partitions for fireplace prevention.
One instance is the Kurassic-kan, with its barely groan-inducing identify (a pun on “kura” and “traditional”). It had a former life as a sake brewery, and is now used for exhibitions and the like, even housing Japanese gardens. the place you possibly can take pleasure in seasonal flower viewing.
In what looks as if mind-boggling however charming specificity, there’s additionally a museum devoted fully to vintage scales (measuring gear, not fish) of all types—for sorting silkworm cocoons by weight and intercourse, for example.
See Yayoi Kusama’s Work on the Metropolis Museum of Artwork
You probably have solely someday in Matsumoto, make this the point of interest of your go to. Yayoi Kusama was born in Matsumoto, so it’s becoming that one of many largest museums devoted to her work is positioned proper right here.
Should you haven’t been in a position to rating tickets to her museum in Tokyo—which can also be a beautiful expertise, albeit one requiring extra planning—simply head all the way down to Matsumoto and present up on the Metropolis Museum of Artwork. Right here, you possibly can simply stroll in and purchase tickets on the day you arrive.
Matsumoto has not reached fanatic vacationer heights but, so queues final a couple of minutes at most, and it’s great to expertise Kusama’s artwork with out the same old metropolitan hordes.
I can’t let you know how nice it’s to easily sit within the “Love is Without end” room and permit your self to be swallowed by the large, psychedelic canvases lining the partitions. Plus, you possibly can take pictures on this part!
Get pleasure from Woodblock Prints on the Japan Ukiyo-e Museum
This museum is residence to one of many world’s largest non-public artwork collections, however the precise variety of woodblock prints on show is on the decrease aspect—although it’s rotated pretty usually.
It’s nonetheless value a visit for critical woodblock print aficionados. The Japan Ukiyo-e Museum is a bit farther afield of the town heart, only a brief 10-minute taxi experience from Matsumoto Station.
Discover Matsumoto’s Many Impartial Outlets
Sure, it’s an umbrella time period that doesn’t even start to cowl the variety of pleasant little institutions ready so that you can uncover them. Small cafes, izakaya, eating places, and galleries abound. You’ll spot just a few bakeries.
There are quite a few retailers promoting crafts, ceramics, lacquerware, artwork, watches, antiques, secondhand books, and extra. Let your eyes and toes be your information.
I personally beloved Schrödinger’s Closet, not removed from the Yayoi Kusama Museum. What I believed was going to be a random little garments store turned out to inventory some severely swag-worthy gear. Additionally they stocked these unbelievable little hand-painted brooches within the form of human hearts by an immensely gifted native excessive schooler.
Aspect Journeys From Matsumoto
Matsumoto is a superb place to base your self for just a few days earlier than venturing into the encircling Alps. Listed here are just some options.
Kamikochi
When the mountaineering season begins and hotter climate arrives, strap in your strolling boots and head for the mountains of Kamikochi.
Kamikochi is a mountain resort within the Japanese Alps, and it’s one of the crucial pristine, attractive mountain areas within the nation, with the type of landscapes that make your breath catch in your throat. Lush forests, mountaineering trails, and spectacular views are a lot, as are onsen soaking alternatives.
It’s simply accessible from Matsumoto by a 90-minute bus experience. Visiting in a day is feasible, however even higher is to remain just a few nights after a bit time in Matsumoto, to discover the mountains. Excellent for hikers, bird-watchers, and nature lovers basically.
Norikura Kogen Highlands
This space is one other unbelievable vacation spot for outdoorsy sorts. Summer time sees glorious mountaineering situations (try all of the waterfalls), whereas the Japanese winter is all about snowboarding and snowboarding. Or you can simply soak in one of many onsen scorching spring baths.
Hida Takayama
Often often known as Takayama, this little mountain city is a two-and-a-half hour bus journey from Matsumoto, so that you’ll need to make it an in a single day (or two-night) keep quite than a day journey.
Takayama is a favourite with vacationers for the picturesque, old-world Edo-style structure and small-town ambiance, in addition to the 2 main Japanese festivals in spring and autumn—the Sanno Matsuri and the Yahata Matsuri. In fact, meals centered round scrumptious native Hida beef is another excuse to go to.
Don’t neglect to go to the small however charming city of Hida Furukawa, simply quarter-hour away from Takayama on the native prepare. It was the city that impressed Itomori, a fictional city in Makoto Shinkai’s blockbuster anime movie Your Identify. Fittingly, there have additionally been writing retreats held right here.
Consuming in Matsumoto
Nagano has no scarcity of nice meals. Everybody will let you know it’s in all probability due to the mountains, and by extension, the scrumptious water. No matter it’s, there’s no denying that the meals is spectacular.
Additionally, the cost-performance of consuming out in Matsumoto—or cospa as we prefer to say in Japan—is fabulous. As a Tokyo dweller, I got here to Matsumoto and cried over all of the costly lunches again within the Massive Ume. It’s only a reality of small metropolis residing. The standard of cafe meals in Matsumoto is uniformly excessive and priced way more competitively.
There’s far more bang in your buck right here. Go earlier than city inflation catches up.
Soba
Buckwheat noodles are a Nagano speciality, so you might be just about duty-bound to hunt them out for those who go to any city on this prefecture.
I discover it laborious to rave about soba joints in Tokyo as a result of I’ve been so spoiled by small mountain city soba eating places. The noodles listed below are simply scrumptious—nutty, with that very important al dente chunk to them. And as soon as once more, it’s all in regards to the cospa.
You’ll need to look out for hachiwari or juwari soba, which refers back to the ratio of buckwheat to wheat flour within the noodles.Hachiwari is a ratio of 8:2, whereas juwari is 100% buckwheat. The latter is the most secure guess for individuals on gluten-free diets. However there’s no assure in regards to the dipping sauce, so that you’ll have to verify if the soy sauce used comprises any wheat.
Nozawana
You’ll see this leafy Japanese mustard inexperienced, which is nice pickled or stewed, in eating places, memento retailers, and the rice balls within the native comfort store.
Horse meat
Particularly, uncooked horse meat, or basashi. Don’t knock it till you strive it. Uncooked slices of chilly horse sashimi served with native soy sauce and a small pile of finely grated garlic ranks as one of many high most beautiful mouthfuls within the prefecture. Even higher for those who discover it drizzled with a bit nutty sesame oil.
Miso
All over the place you flip, you’ll see Shinshu miso—a salty, earthy, umami-packed yellow paste made by fermenting rice, salt, and soybeans—being offered in Matsumoto.
Shinshu is the identify for an previous province that’s now modern-day Nagano prefecture, with its capital close to what’s at the moment Matsumoto. With its cool climate, clear air, and unbelievable native substances, the town has nice situations for growing older miso. It’s no shock that it produces such scrumptious miso.
Shinshu miso makes an incredible memento or present for the cooks in your life. Miso soup is an apparent dish, however you can additionally use it as a marinade for fish, meat, or greens. Smear on rice balls earlier than grilling; combine with chunks of crispy lard and broiled tomatoes for a cool, salty dip that’s out of this world.
Cheesecake
I’m not kidding. A store known as Komugi-ya sells among the most phenomenal cheesecakes I’ve ever had. Suppose flavors like Parmesan and Camembert. Eat and weep tears of pleasure.
Planning Your Journey: When to Go to
Anytime.
It’s laborious to discover a unhealthy time to go to Matsumoto, since every season has its personal appeal.
The greatest time to go to Japan is exclusive to each particular person. For some individuals, Matsuomo’s picturesque winters are very best, whereas others want the spring cherry blossom season, or Matsumoto’s heat and nice summers.
Winter is nice for those who love winter sports activities—ski journeys out to the close by mountains will likely be a blast. Plum blossom season is beautiful; chilly however not winter-frigid, and also you’ll nonetheless have the ability to benefit from the snow-capped mountains.
The mountaineering season is at all times a great time to go to. Spring is gloriously lush, and autumn turns the encircling greenery into streaks of yellow and crimson.
Even summer time is an effective time to go to. There are festivals, and the mountains make Matsumoto far much less humid and scorching than it may in any other case be.
Getting Across the Metropolis
Central Matsumoto is kind of compact, so a lot of the main areas could be lined in a day or two. Strolling is one of the best ways to find the town.
Alternatively, hop on a bicycle. Some hostels and motels have bicycles obtainable for rental. If you wish to discover the encircling mountain cities, renting a automotive can also be a great choice.
Lodging
As a result of it’s within the coronary heart of the mountains, there’s no scarcity of scorching spring inns in Matsumoto. A favourite luxurious choice is KAI Matsumoto.
Positioned a 15-minute drive from Matsumoto Fortress, visitors will love the up to date tackle conventional ryokan rooms, outside baths with attractive mountain views, regional wine alternatives, and nightly concert events within the foyer.
A extra budget-friendly choice is Tabi Shiro, a captivating native guesthouse within the metropolis run by some tremendous pleasant of us. Bonus: You’ll snag a free drink ticket once you verify in.
Ultimate Ideas on Matsumoto
Should you’re on the lookout for a Tokyo getaway, Matsumoto is an ideal alternative—it’s certain to appeal the first-time customer. However it’s additionally a unbelievable base for day journeys out to Nagano or Gifu prefectures, and an incredible transition level for heading out into the Central Alps.
Cities like Matsumoto are sometimes ignored by first-time guests to Japan in favor of locations like Tokyo and Kyoto. However if in case you have extra time to spare, and a style for a slower tempo of journey, you’ll love a metropolis like Matsumoto. Should you’re planning a vacation to Japan, why not make a while for a visit out to those components?
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